Three samples, three completely different fabrics, all of them at 180 GSM. The weight was never the spec — and here's the line that actually was.

The minimum isn't the factory's number. It's the mill's, the dye house's and the trim supplier's, added up, and only one of the four has real give in it.

The cut-and-sew quote is lower. The program usually isn't. Whoever owns the fabric owns the cotton market, the duty question and the blame.